Green surfboards

The best surfboards in the world are the most toxic. Take any professional surfer and she/he will be riding a high tech stick packed with the latest innovations. It will also be the worst possible board for the environment not only in its materials, but in the creation, disposal, and in effects on workers creating …

Paddle 2 Live – Wednesday Workouts – 4 mile paddle

Have you ever left the shore? Gone beyond the surf into the open ocean? On a 10-foot foam board? To many it’s a Wednesday ritual where they paddle 4 miles out to the RS4 Bell Buoy. For others (like me) it’s a panic attack waiting to happen with images of sharks, storms, barracudas, and 100 …

Debbie Beacham a pioneer in womens surfing

Last week I attended the induction ceremony for the Surfing Walk of Fame where Debbie Beacham was honored. She seemed shy as she walked onto the stage making the comment that PT forced her to write a speech. What came out was fascinating. I grabbed two minutes of it on my iPhone. The sound is …

The best waves in California

The August 2011 issue of Surfer magazine listed the 100 best waves. The majority of them were from Hawaii, Indo, and Australia but six Cali spots made the cut: Rincon – #19 Lower Trestles – #28 Maverick’s – #55 Malibu – #59 Sandspit – #77 Blacks – #97   From the magazine: Ranking waves? What …

History of the Wetsuit: “I just wanted to be warm”

Yesterday the water here in Southern California dropped a full ten degrees overnight. It went from a bathing suit 66 to a freezing, it-hurts 56 degrees. According to the lifeguards this is due to the last big-wave swell. It came in with a strong wind and in a few days had blown away the top …

History of the Wetsuit: "I just wanted to be warm"

Yesterday the water here in Southern California dropped a full ten degrees overnight. It went from a bathing suit 66 to a freezing, it-hurts 56 degrees. According to the lifeguards this is due to the last big-wave swell. It came in with a strong wind and in a few days had blown away the top …

New music, surf film: Billabong Blowup (plus soundtrack)

Surfers know the best place to find new music is in a surf film. We would probably watch surfing for hours but it definitely helps to have great music. The latest surf film from Billabong, Blowup, has it all. Great shots, editing that flows, and amazing music. Surprisingly the majority of the songs are form …

The surfing pop up

I’m back at the beach. A barefoot drop-in to the doughnut shop for a ‘buttermilk chocolate’. Standing on a fence to spot the best break. Squeezing into a wetsuit like a cannonball through a garden hose. Finally, down to the water.. There’s only one problem, I don’t know how to stand-up. Everyone thinks I’m a …