The seal looked just like a man

…and it freaked me out! No kidding. I’m sitting in the water and I turn around: there are two human-looking heads staring right at me. Their heads are smooth like slicked back hair. I blink once, twice and then it occurs to me…they’re not human. Yet we are still staring at each other. It’s one …

The best waves in California

The August 2011 issue of Surfer magazine listed the 100 best waves. The majority of them were from Hawaii, Indo, and Australia but six Cali spots made the cut: Rincon – #19 Lower Trestles – #28 Maverick’s – #55 Malibu – #59 Sandspit – #77 Blacks – #97   From the magazine: Ranking waves? What …

History of the Wetsuit: "I just wanted to be warm"

Yesterday the water here in Southern California dropped a full ten degrees overnight. It went from a bathing suit 66 to a freezing, it-hurts 56 degrees. According to the lifeguards this is due to the last big-wave swell. It came in with a strong wind and in a few days had blown away the top …

History of the Wetsuit: “I just wanted to be warm”

Yesterday the water here in Southern California dropped a full ten degrees overnight. It went from a bathing suit 66 to a freezing, it-hurts 56 degrees. According to the lifeguards this is due to the last big-wave swell. It came in with a strong wind and in a few days had blown away the top …

Top Events for the US Open of Surfing 2011

Welcome to the 2011 US Open of Surfing! The party officially starts today with check-ins for the athletes and the big on-beach retail stores opening up. Though, with a big swell hitting right now most are probably in the water. If you’re looking to attend I pulled together my favorite, must-see events, check ’em out:

New music, surf film: Billabong Blowup (plus soundtrack)

Surfers know the best place to find new music is in a surf film. We would probably watch surfing for hours but it definitely helps to have great music. The latest surf film from Billabong, Blowup, has it all. Great shots, editing that flows, and amazing music. Surprisingly the majority of the songs are form …

He lives to thrash (trailer)

Cooorrryy, Cooorrryy, Cooorrryy…. bzzzzz! Cory Webster is taking off for LA He lives to thrash *Thrashin is available on Netflix instant streaming* — Full Script He Loves to compete But the competition is killer “Check it out it’s Hook and the Daggers”   “You’re gonna be the most beautiful girl in the club” The music …

My First Surfboards

I love these boards. They are my coolest toys. I would sleep with them if I didn’t have a pretty lady, so instead I dream about them. Like Mitchell dreaming about Pepe the Spanish-speaking shark in Airborne (see clip far below). Toffler This is my current board, a 7’6 white and blue learner board. It’s …